What a difference a border makes! We have only been in Jordan for a matter of hours and we already love it! From the fanatastic guys at the falfel place who were ecstatic to see us as repeat customers to the clean scent-free streets and the shops that we can walk past without a single business owner taking notice of us, not to mention that no one evens seems to notice that we are foreigners or if they do they don`t care to stare at us! Woohoo! It feels so nice to be invisible again and these falfels are the best thing ever!

Yummm.... Falafels

As for today`s activities, we did little of interest to our readers. Just some walking around, lazing about, visiting a super posh internet cafe that looked more like a vacation resort, and eating lots of falafels. We are thoroughly enjoying ourselves and also enjoying the differences between Egypt and Jordan that are so blatant it is impossible to overlook them. For being such close neighbors, these two countries are vastly different from each other, both with positives and negatives although we must admit that, while we did enjoy our time in Egypt, we are favoring Jordan and looking forward to seeing what else the country brings!

From 9AM until 5PM, we did nothing. We read, drank tea, played cards, and walked and sat and sighed and grumbled and waited some more. When we played cards in a little cafe-restaurant across from the terminal we amassed a highly curious and involved audience who offered (Arabic) advice on how we should play our cards and intently watchful eyes of all ages, from the 5 year old son of the cafe owner to a scraggly old man of about 60.

Street Goat

We were told by the owner of the bungalow last night to make sure we get to the ferry early as they only sell tickets until noon and sometimes they sell out! We had heard horror stories about this ferry and they were all true. From the crazy gangs of roving goats in the streets of Nuweiba City to the wretched, indescribably hot building and the never ending wait, it was all true. And on top of everything, that extra $10 to take the “guaranteed express” ferry, that $10 that could feed us both for 2 days was completely wasted because not only was the ferry tremendously late (2 hours), it still took four freaking hours to get there!!

Wild goat gang

So leaving at 5pm from Egypt put us into Aqaba around 9pm where we had to wait around for our visas and passports before we could officially leave the premises. We powered ahead of the line of 200 or so Jordanians trying to pass the border and told the guard we had to catch a bus and he let us pass as well as the two Aussies who tagged along behind us.

The ferry waiting room

As we rounded the corner we saw what looked remotely like a zombie film. Touts and taxi drivers were piled up against the fence reaching in trying to grab at anything with money. We watched as two Japanese girls entered the mess, never to be seen again. We fastened down and plunged through; pushing, shoving, and yelling NO (in Arabic) as we were grabbed and dragged in 5 different directions. We had a rough idea that town was closer than is really was. We topped the hill and saw the lights of the city far off. We had no choice but to take a taxi As we walked down into the maylay. We spotted the two Aussies we had briefly chatted with on the ferry who were looking horrified, dazed, and utterly helpless. They didn`t have one red cent between them so Saben got a taxi to take us all four to the city center for 5 Dinar (all the money we had). The driver had started on the Aussies at 35 Dinar; that`s outrageous!!

Lucky for us the Aussies had a place in mind to stay and we didn`t so they saved us there. It was almost 10pm and we had no interest in walking around the city in the dark, fully loaded, without a place to stay. It was the lovely Jordan Flower Hotel where we secured a private double (no dorms available) wıth shared bath for about 11 JD/pp. A bit expensive for us but that is the price one pays to be unprepared (but to be fair, we had expected to arrive in the day time about 5 hours earlier!). But the Jordan Flower is perfectly located, with an unbeatable falfel place just around the corner and up a block, an ATM a street over and an internet cafe just behind it.

But it was an uphill battle to enoy it here. Money grubbing touts and dishonest men are around every corner just waiting to screw you any way they can, and when they are done they ask for a tip. We did meet a lot of extremely generous people, in fact I would say the nicest people I have ever met. It is an awesome experience to be walking down the street and have dozens of strangers welcome you to their city like a brother. Unfortunately because of the other half you have to be on guard and that puts you at a disadvantage for the positive experiences. So I would say overall we had a great time but it wasn’t without its challenges. We will be back… someday…. way way way in the future

Click here for the Egypt Photo Gallery

Favorite moments:

• Kosheri
• Red Sea… all of it
• Driving through the desert
• The Pyramids
• Camels!
• Awesome guys at the bakery in Cairo
• Amazing culture and people

Not so great:

• Touts
• Baksheesh for nothing (well, greed)
• Disregard for cleanliness, sanitation, or common sense
• Blatent theft and dishonesty
• Touts

Total Money Spent Per Person: $436.65

Average Per Day Costs Per Person:

• Lodging: $5.25
• Food: $6
• Transportation: $6.36
• Misc: $11.50 (Beer, Trips to the store, Souvenirs, Park entrance, Guide Fees, etc.)

Total Average Per Day, Per Person: $29.11

Number of Days: 15

After hiking for nearly 3 hours, we summited Mt Sinai and found a hidden cubby to shield ourselves from the chilling wind until the light of dawn began to peak. And when it did, it was really splendid.

Dawn

The hike itself wasn’t too bad: 3 hours on a camel trail plus a good 20 min. climbing stairs. The top of the mountain has been a pilgrimage site for decades and as such facilities are well laid out with snack stands every 30 min or so.

The trail

Once we were at the top though it was absolutely freezing! We were expecting it to be cold but this was ridiculous. We found a small cove we could hide in for the hour and a half till sun up. The sun rise was spectacular even though the entire top of the mountain was crawling with tourists and touts.

The sunrise

On the way down we stopped by Saint Catherine’s Monastery. The monastery holds some interesting things for people of all or no faiths. The alledged Burning Bush is now housed inside St. Catherine`s and people from all over the world come too see it, touch it, pray beside it and be otherwise emotionally moved in its presence. In addition, the oldest translation of the Bible is in St Catherine`s world renowned extensive library along with one of the largest collections of illuminated manuscripts in the world. İt is definitely worth a look and also houses some truly incredible old pieces of religious art.

The burned(?) bush

After a tiring day, night, and now another day, we were happy to finally get to Nuweiba where we spent the night to more easily catch the ferry to Jordan tomorrow. We rented a charming beach bungalow for around $2/pp complete with mosquito net riddled with holes and windows that can`t open and no fan.

Our room

We even made a friend, a scruffy looking brown lab mix (now known as Muffins, the Racist Dragon). He wasn`t very good at playing fetch with his one eye and was afraid of the water…that was painful for his numerous war wounds. After playing in the water for a while we all three retired to our beach blanket where Muffins became our guardian/attack dog when Arab men walked past us down the beach. Aparently Muffins had had a bad run-in with one or several Arab men because he really seemed to like Saben. He didn’t have any problem when a woman walked down the beach either but at first sniff of an Arab man he shot up and chased them snarling and snapping his teeth. He ran two guys (who took turns running behind one another) into water up to their waists! We were not too surprised when they returned a few minutes later, one with a metal pole and the other with a 2×4, and purposefully tried to aggravate the dog. Saben gave the dog a pat on the head to calm it down and gave the men a few choice words that encouraged them to leave the three of us alone. We have seen men beat anything they can get their hands on here (one of the saddest aspects of our time in the region) and it looks like Muffins has as well.

Our beach shack

We bid Muffins farewell and left him on the beach as we headed back to our bungalow trying to escape the torrent of mosquitoes that come out around dusk.

This place just gets better and better with each day we are here! It`s beautiful, warm and sunny, has great food, and an island pace. More snorkeling today and laying in the sun to tan. Tonight we hike Mount Sinai to see the sun rise tomorrow morning. No sleep tonight but it should be worth it. We shall see…

Camel enjoying the empty northern beach

Saben started the day with a morning dive (Penguin Divers, 18 euros includes all equipment). But to be honest, Saben`s dive wasn`t very exciting. They went to “The Islands”, where we had been snorkeling yesterday, and he didn`t see anymore diving than he did snorkeling! Still it was a great way to brush up on his mad diving skills.

Boat on the water

Later we took a glassbottom boat (Lin had never been on one) for around US$10 pp (1.5 hours). We saw some many fısh and tons of colorful coral! There were parrot fısh and clownfısh, wild goldfish and sea bass, a small eel garden with a couple hundred eels sticking up out of the sand, a giant pufferfish (un-inflated…), a tiny vibrant neon purple fish that we can`t name, beautiful Blue Arabians, small tuna, and the list could keep going! It was really exciting and more fun than we would have expected. Well worth the price!

Shot through the glass

Travel Tip:

There are about a million and a half dive shops in Dahab and it can be rather daunting to try and choose a good one with good gear, good people, and a reasonable price. It is definitely worth walking down the strip to price check and meet the folks you will be diving with and to have a peek at their equipment. Be careful who you ask for recommendations because most everyone has a vested interest in the answer they give you. Wikitravel.org has a pretty good list of several shops, contact info, and a brief description of each. You can always check Lonely Planet`s Thorn Tree forum on theır website or ask fellow travelers at your hostel who they liked diving with.

Also note that most of the dive sites are also great snorkeling sights so if your travel mate doesn`t dive, most shops will let them come along just for snorkeling. As with all things in Egypt, prices are fluid and can change quite easily. Most shops quote prices in euros or dollars and you can ask if they will give you a discount (especially during low season–they`re starving for business!).

Few things better than snorkeling in the Red Sea. Parrot fish, clownfish, lion fish, flute fish, barracuda, and a mass of other fish too plentiful to name were waiting just below the surface as we trucked off to “The Islands” dive site.

Rusted by the sea air

The water is clear and cool with the occasional cold current coming in from the deeper waters in the sea. Plus the highly salinated water makes floating and swimming all the more fun! The site is fantastic; a set of three coral islands just below the surface, with the tops sticking out at low tide. A flurry of activity waits on the inland side as the sea life escapes the cold waters of the deep sea.

Lin by the sea

After a taxing day of fun in the water and sun, we spent our evening lounging on oversized pillows and rugs on a rooftop restaurant sipping drinks and smoking shisha and admiring the stars and twinkling lights of Saudi Arabia just across the sea.

Travel Tip:

The Red Sea boasts some of the world`s best snorkeling and diving so Dahab is a great place for enjoying massive amounts of sea life floating effortlessly right before your eyes. Around Dahab`s coast are several snorkeling/diving sights and each sight has its best time depending on the tides so ask around at the dive shop or when you rent snorkel gear what sights are best at the time you are going out.

We liked The Islands, about 15-20 minutes walk from the popular Funny Mummy restaurant and surrounding area. Lighthouse reef was neat but was flooded with jellyfish so we didn`t get to stay there long. All the dive shops will have maps of the sights so ask any one for tips and recommendations. Snorkel equipment runs about US$1.75-$2 (10 EGYP) maximum for mask and fins all day but some shops have different ideas what “all day” means so be sure to ask.

Despite the firm declarations of the bus attendant, driver, and ticket guy the bus to Dahab was NOT 12 hours but turned out to be 17! On top of that, it was the most uncomfortable 17 hours of our lives and we now have multiple bruises and perhaps even some permanent bone-reshaping from the unusually tiny dimensions of the bus interior.

Donkeys seem to be OK though

The seats were extraordinarily narrow even for our small frames and the ceiling was, when we were seated, a maximum of 2 inches above our heads. It was as if the bus company decided to squeeze in an extra row or two, the result being the person in front of Lin literally reclined very rudely and painfully on Lin’s bony knees.

But—when we arrived in Dahab, it was all worth it. A quiet little beach town with few tourists remaining in the current low season, we seem to have Dahab mostly to ourselves. First order of business was to examine the famed Red Sea. It far exceeded any expectation we could have ever set forth. The tide was low, leaving behind thousands of tide pools across the wide shore filled with plenty of stranded starfish, crabs, sea snails, and plenty of other unidenitifiable creatures.

Starfish!

Saben smokin' some shisha

We spent our evening on a rooftop bar smoking shisha, admiring the stars and twinkling lights of Saudi Arabia just across the bay. What a life!

Super slow day for posting. We did nothing today but try and hide from the heat in the best air-conditioned place in town: the internet cafe…Night bus to Dahab this afternoon. Better luck for posts tomorrow…

Shot down our street

Egypt is all about tours. Everyone seems to have a hand in at least five or six enterpirses aimed at the tourism industry. For those who prefer sightseeing alone find it twenty times more difficult than it should be. So as it turned out, it was more economical to take a tour to the Valley of the Kings and surrounding area (a whopping $25 for guide, transport, and all tickets; each sight has its own entrance fee and taxis charge astronomical fees to take you to the area and then wait for you).

Columns amoung the ruins

Despite our unusually whiney group (maybe it was the heat?), we did see some interesting ancient art and history. There was even a 6,000 year old mummified (miscarried) human fetus and some rather puny looking early Christian graffiti scrawled over such skillful Egyptian paintings (this isn’t a slam to any religion, just an observation). Unfortunately the normal baksheesh begging no photo allowed unless I’m getting paid for it “tourist police” were ever present, so very few photos to show for our time.

Valley of the Kings

Statue in the temple

We tramped through the valley of the Kings, Hapshepsut’s tomb (only woman to be buried in the Valley of the Kings–interesting back story there), Valley of the Queens, an alabaster workshop (built-into the tour sales pitch) the Colossus of Memnon in ancient Thebes, and that’s it (I think…). It was an especially hot day, around 105 degrees Farhenheit and we were melty piles of former humans by the time we got back to our ceiling-fan-equipped room of questionable stability while on the HIGH setting.