Along the way we did have our share of misadventures. Saben (being the old man he is) messed up his knee, we ate more disgusting food than any human should be forced to eat in a lifetime, had to overcome some serious cultural differences (Peruvian bus etiquette for example), and may never be able to fully stand upright again after untold hours of bus travel. But, honestly we wouldn’t have had it any other way (well maybe a little less “breakfast” in Bolivia). We can’t wait to get back to South America and explore all the cultural riches that we were only able to scratch the surface of. Truly the trip of a life time, and we have only just begun.

(Be sure to check the photo gallery page here)

Favorite moments:

• Brazil, just Brazil…. all of it
• Bolivian landscape
• Machu Picchu
• Carnival in Rio
• Surfing
• Weekend in Argentina
• Iguazu Falls
• Brazilian Beaches

Not so great:

• Breakfast, in all its forms
• Killer bus rides
• Crazy Bolivian “roads”
• La Paz insanity
• Lindsey getting robbed, again

Total Money Spent Per Person: $1,997.75

Average Per Day Costs Per Person:

• Lodging: $6.50
• Food: $9.00
• Transportation: $7.25
• Misc: $10.00 (Beer, going out, guides, park entrance, etc.)

Total Average Per Day, Per Person: $32.75

Number of Days: 61

But Peru was also a giant pain in the you know what. We were both struck seriously ill for the first time due to the bugs in the water (or maybe the uncooked food), were subjected to hour upon hour of whiny adults, and ate plenty of food that we are pretty sure was not food. We hate to say it but overall we didn’t really like Peru. Had we gone there first, before entering Bolivia, things might have been different or it could have been our own jaded expectations. Either way, it was an experience if not an overly enjoyable one. The best stories are never fun at the time.

(Check out the Peru photo gallery here)

Favorite moments:

• Back terraces of Machu Picchu
• Cheap prices
• Surfing Miraflores
• Eating at Bembos
• First class service at low class cost
• Bus rides through the mountains
• Sacred Valley
• Arcade games at the Larcomar

Not so great:

• The water (and the damage done)
• Saben’s broken camera (not really Peru’s fault)
• Saben’s broken toe (kind of Peru’s fault)
• Adult tantrums on Peruvian buses
• The food (in general)

Total Money Spent Per Person: $462

Average Per Day Costs Per Person:

• Lodging: $6.50
• Food: $10.25
• Transportation: $10.25
• Misc: $6 (Beer, going out, guides, park entrance, etc.)

Total Average Per Day, Per Person: $33

Number of Days: 14

Today we savoured and celebrated our very last day in the Americas. While we have thoroughly enjoyed our time in Central and South America, we are ready to try our hand in some entirely and truly foreign (to us, that is) cultures. Yes, we will be stopping off in both Spain and Greece for 2 weeks of actual vacation time but right after that we fly straight into land of adventure, chaos, and sand: Egypt. Being in the States, we are pretty familiar with Latino culture but we have had limited exposure to others such as Arabic or Islamic culture. We are looking forward to the experiences which lie ahead of us with excitement and uncertainty. We realize it will definitely be a kick in the face but otherwise we have no expectations or notions of what it will entail. So tonight we celebrate and bid farewell to the Americas with a feast and one final Pisco Sour toast!

Random Peru beach shot

I’ve never met a surfer who was stressed out about anything. Carlos, a lawyer turned surf instructor, was certainly no different. We made our way down to the beach from town to a small tent right on the beach which serves as the Pukana Surfer School (http://www.pukanasurferschool.com). Standing around 5 feet tall with abs of steel and a big smile that never left his lips, Carlos went from being a serious teacher to a fun surfer buddy as he taught Saben the essentials of surfing. Although lessons are an hour($16 including wet suit and board), the first 15 minutes is serious on-land warm-up / practice. Then you get your magnormous long board especially for first timers and it’s time to get wet. Having absolutely no interest in surfing herself, Lin was enlisted as photographer for the day, chronicling Saben’s attempts at surfing.

Saben and his crazy long... long board

Admittedly, it was pretty boring to watch for a while with all the paddling back and taking breaks for Carlos’ continued beginner’s tips. But as soon as Saben caught his first wave (2nd attempt, thank you very much!), spectating became much more exciting!

Saben and Carlos paddling out

Saben actually surfing!

Saben surfing

Of course Saben felt a rush when he realized, ”Hey! I’m really standing!” which was immediately followed by, ”Ok, now what?!”

One more...

After half an hour, Saben began to feel why Carlos is really buff. It’s all that damned paddling! By the end of an hour in the water, Saben was dragging and relieved for the end of the lesson. Exiting the water with a nicly broken toe from a bailout that landed him hard on the rocks.

Extremely white Saben and Carlos

He could paddle no more, not even when Carlos offered free rental later in the afternoon if Saben wanted to come back for more. As much as he wanted to, his arms refused, remaining in a limp gellatanous state all day long after pounding the tough waves at Miraflores. Saben had an awesome time with the very awesome Carlos and Lin can now proudly say she dates a surfer!

Today we did nothing but wander the streets of Lima. We picked up some supplies and snacks at the huge Metro supermarket. It was the nicest, cleanest grocery store we’ve ever seen but the shoppers were even more angry and snatch-and-grab than Wal-mart. It was like a shopping cart derby and we were all gladiators fighting for the last box of cornflakes.

Miraflores Stone Beach

After escaping the lion pit, we stowed our goods back in the hostel and headed for the beach. It was foggy but it was still fun to watch the surfers of all ages and sizes try their hand (feet?) at surfing. ”Tomorrow,” Saben decided boldly, ”I will surf.”

View from the cliff

After a delightful spot of luxury (as delightful as any 18 hour bus ride can be, 1st class or not!), we arrived early in Lima and struggled to find a place to stay. Luckily, we found a taxi driver who knew a bit about some hostels and dropped us in the lovely Miraflores district. We discovered Che Lagar, a new hostel only open 3-4 months just a few blocks from the better known Loki hostel. It’s immaculately clean, very modern and a bit funky with its classy black and lime interior.

Larcomar at night

We spent the day wandering around Miraflores, enjoying the delights of the Larcomar (the massive shopping and entertainment center down by the beach–you can’t miss it!), and revisiting our old friend Bembo’s for dinner after we had exhausted ourselves playing arcades games meant for 10 year olds!

Tiny wild strawberries and tomatillos, big bright pink orchids, thick misty clouds rolling in and out obscuring the view of Wayna Picchu. This is Machu Picchu. It’s easy to understand why the Incas chose such an unlikely place to build the most important city in ancient Peru. (To learn more about the history of Machu Picchu, click the wiki link here). It’s also equally understandable why the Spanish never discovered such a magnificent, hidden place.

We were out the door early (4:30 a.m.) and rushed down to the travel office to buy our bus ticket up to Machu Picchu. There was already a line forming and by the time we left (5:45 a.m.) the line spanned 2 city blocks! The views up to Machu Picchu (from here on just MP) were stunning. We entered the gate like a hoard of hungrey animals but everyone was rushing in for one thing, tickets to hike Wayna Picchu (the large mountian in every photo you have ever seen of MP… ever). We followed along but cut line and grabbed tickets for the 10:30 instead of the 7 o’clock climb. They only allow 400 people a day to climb Wayna so you must get a ticket early if you want to do it.

Fog rolling over Machu Picchu

Desperate to escape the noisey, un-pictureque piles of tourists, we hiked around and down onto some of the back terraces where we had a meager breakfast of some cookies and crackers overlooking the river so far below.

View from our breakfast nook

We watched colorful birds flit past our heads and marveled at the clouds that quickly covered the highest mountains and just as quickly retreated to reveal and endlessly spectacular view. During our escapades trudging carefully around the back terraces, we found an entire terrace dotted with the tiniest red strawberries, ripe only on one side.

Strawberries of Machu Picchu

Sparrow at Machu Picchu

Orchid at Machu Picchu

In the early morning, it seemed like it might end up a rainy day but the later the morning got, the more clear the sky got. We tried our best to steer away from the crowds as long as possible, we cut along the back of the ruins, went up to the Inca bridge and wondered through the parts of the ruins that the guides don’t tromp through. A lovely morning, really feeling as if we were finding MP for our selves.

Machu Picchu

Us at Machu Picchu

Lawn Mower at Machu Picchu

The chill in the air dissipated with the heavy clouds from the morning just in time for us to make the strenuous climb to the peak of Wayna Picchu, the mountain towering above MP that affords one a great panoramic view of the ruins and the surrounding mountains as well. It was a tough, slippery, one person at a time ”trail” over wet rocks cut into crude steps with only (sometimes) a chain ”handrail.” It was one hour each way and proved to be every bit as challenging as it appeared from the faces of those who had just descended that we met on our way up.

View down into the valley

Lindsey on Wayna Picchu

Machu Picchu as seen from Wayna Picchu

When we arrived back at MP we wandered through the more popular ruins, luckily by this time it was around lunch and very few people were milling about so we were not accosted by tour group after tour group.

Random Machu Photo

Back in Aguas Calientes, we hopped the more appropriate train–the backpacker train, which is code for super shitty–and sadly watched as the luxurious train rolled on by (Side note: apparently the backpacker train is also about an hour or so slower). Anyway, a taxi and cramped bus back to Cusco and Saben was feeling really terrible by this time. Whatever had attacked Lin just days ago was now looking for some fresh victim. We had no choice but to take the night bus to Lima–we’re seriously running out of time till our flight to Madrid! But, we splurged in efforts to make Saben as comfortable a possible and not die along the way. Yes, it’ true: we traveled first class! Well, Peru first class which came to about $28. It’s an 18 hour ride and there were only 6 passengers total. When we discovered that the overhead compartments (which always fit) were smaller than usual, our backpacks weren’t treated like common street vermin stowed below the bus. No, instead they were treated to their very own seats right in front of us! Not only did we get coffee after a snack but we got sandwichs and blankets and English movies! When we tried to adjust the A/C over our seats, the wonderuful stewardess immediately interrupted snack service to go turn on the air conditioning!

View from the bus

Now this is the way to travel. Oh, and did I mention that it was the first bus in months that didn’t smell like urine…and stuff…the entire ride?! Now we can understand those funny people who ”only fly first class”—it’s freakin sweet!

Travel Tip:

Buy your bus ticket the day before if you can because the lines at 4:30AM for the 5AM buses are just insane! And we would recommend getting into the line for the bus around 4AM. We arrived at 4:30AM and the line was already getting long. And despite what everyone will tell you, you don’t really need a rain poncho! Unless it’s pouring down rain when you board the bus, you will probably be just fine. It was sprinkling a bit while we waited for the buses but when we got to MP it was nothing more than a little foggy and quite chilly. By about 10AM, the sun came out and warmed everything up. Most people then felt comfortable enough to wear short sleeves. Be sure to bring sunscreen though because the sun is really intense up there! The websites and brochures all say not to bring in snacks and water (we did)…use your own discretion but please, please DO NOT litter! You won’t see any garbage on the ground when you arrive and to keep it looking so beautiful, just take a plastic bag and carry your trash out with you.

Depending on your speed and if you go with a tour, you can adequately see all of MP (including the climb of Wayna Picchu if you feel up to it) in about 5-6 hours. We just walked around leisurely by ourselves and spent as much time wherever we pleased and still left about 12:30 (arrived at 6:30AM; half hour bus ride from Aguas Calientes). Also, there are only 400 people per day allowed to hike Wayna Picchu. One group goes at 7:00AM and the other at 10:30AM. Most people want the early one to ‘’see the sun rise” but it’s actually pretty tricky to get up there in time for it plus it’s usually pretty cloudy so early and you may not even get a very nice view. We took the second time slot (no guide or anything, just a time you are allowed in) and had absolutely perfect visibility! Just be very very careful because it’s so slippery going up and down from the mountain. If you are not able or interested in making the climb, you can honestly see as equally incredible view from the upper most terraces of MP itself (above the curved terraces near the beginning of the walk to the Inca Bridge).

After a breakfast that can be called no less than utterly insipid, we checked out of the drafty (understatement!) hostel. Passing police in full riot gear and shields ready for some wicked deflecting action, we made our way to the bus station.

Peruvian countryside from the bus window

Two buses through the stunningly beautiful Sacred Valley, we arrived at the train station in Urubamba only to discover that we had missed the cheap train to the town at the foot of Machu Picchu (thanks to Saben’s half conscious insistence that he sleep ”just 5 more minutes” and then 5 more…and 5 more…). The next one wouldn’t depart til about 5 hours later and we couldn’t afford the expensive train that left in only an hour. But lucky for us– special deal, one day only!– we could take the fancy train at a nice discount, $42 instead of the normal $60. It was still $12 more than the usual backpacker’s train ticket but we decided to take the hit and were nicely rewarded when we boarded the train.

I see that train a comin'

Swanky! Sleek wooden side panels, windows running the length of the ceiling, big comfortable seats, a complimentary snack service that proved to be more of a lunch than a snack, and incredibly hospitable service where we were treated delicately as the typical well to do passenger of this fine train! Even better was the fact that there were only 4 other passengers and we were offered an extra snack service when we made friends with the stewardess. One shining spot of luxury in our usually, er, less than luxurious lives!

Inside the posh train

"Snack" service was actually pretty tasty

In the tiny town of Aguas Calientes (closest town to Machu Picchu) we spent an hour trying to find a decent place to stay and ended up with a private room ensuite for $5. Not the greatest place and sure, the downstairs did smell like a 30 year old cat box, but the room was clean. Passed a lazy evening wandering around the town and through the market that sells the same item in all 600 stalls. Capped the night off with dinner at a really good Mexican place with a free pisco sour for us both!

Free pisco sour tastes better than a not free pisco sour

Agua Calientes at night

“Tewnty-five dollars?!” We squinted at the sign posted behind the reception desk to be certain that we had read it correctly. The manager came out and confirmed the price, we thanked him for his time and high-tailed it out of there!

Bummer! Cusco was freezing (and we along with it) and it was 7:30AM. We didn’t know where else to go and had no city map. We knew it would have to be the old walk about to find another cheaper hostel as we shrank deeper into our thin jackets. Just second after we had left, the manager came hurrying back outside and said, ”OK, OK. I suppose…I will give the room to you for…for 25 Soles.”

We looked at him, incredulous at what a huge price drop he was willing to give us. There must not be anyone staying here, we both immediately thought. We exchanged sideways glances to see each other’s reaction but of course we would take it! It was 7:30AM, freezing outside, and we had absolutely no prospects of any warmth in our near future. We filled out the little form and hurried up the stairs to the room. Shucking off everything but the bottom layer of clothes we climbed into our bunks and burrowed into our blankets to escape the unheated building and the seemingly ever-present frigid air. We napped for a few hours, trying to recoup from the wretched bus ride and suffered through inhumanely cold showers in 40 degree weather. But at least we felt (and smelled) a little better.

Lovely random photo of Cuzco

Starving to near death, we circled the town for something that looked cheap enough to eat. We settled on a little pizza place on a side street that served us undercooked, rotten-cheese-and-mystery-meat pizza. It was unquestionably the worst pizza we’ve ever had and could only suffer through tiny slices. We knew better than to eat what smelled like gym locker socks but in Peru, there’s none of this sending back your food because it’s truly unbearable undercooked (with the exception of chicken in Arequipa…which we also should not have eaten). Immediately after we choked down the putrid garbage, we regretted it terribly.

We had to buy the several packs of gum just to get the rancid taste out of our mouths. Finally, after 4 pieces, it was mostly gone. Making our way to the main square, we came upon the leftovers of the protests that had inhibited our bus travel two day ago. But to be honest, it was hard to tell that it was actually a protest. Our stomachs were voicing stronger rebellion than the 250 or 300 people surrounding the square. They were clapping, cheering happily, and laughing loudly as they intermittently spoke into their bullhorns and waved their banners. It’s understandable to want to have a peaceful protest but it’s another thing to treat the protest as a lighthearted, fun, cheery event.

Protesters... umm... protesting?

It was a beautiful sunny day with an azure sky as we sat in the square watching passersby and pigeons coo-cooing at each other over bits of food carelessly dropped on the ground. We were approached by vendors of everything from postcards to earrings to drugs.

Little girl who talked Saben into buying a finger puppet alpaca

Leaving the square almost empty-handed after a few glorious hours of acting like old retired men, we meandered around the square in search of something else more suitable to eat. And there, beaming brightly between a tour company and shop with alpaca goods was Bembo’s–the most fantastic fast food place we have ever experienced! And one of the best meals we’ve had in all of South America (kind of sad, really). Bembo’s is a burger and fries kind of place but the inside is decorated like a chic pop art restaurant with funky couches and cushy armchairs next to cafe tables. Not to mention how incredibly fresh and delicious the food is! It’s like gourmet fast food and the burgers are massive. Of course no meal in Peru is complete without Inca Kola, the tutti frutti flavored soda the color of nuclear urine. Mmmm, muy sabroso!

Cuzco square by night

Finally, after much uncertainty and many different answers, bus travel is no longer suspended for Cusco. Woohoo! Apparently, the protests going on are not so violent as we were originally led to believe and are supposed to end today. So we are heading out of Arequipa on a night bus and, having by now thoroughly exhausted the sightseeing opportunities here, we are spending the day holed up in an internet cafe trying desperately to get caught up on the website!