(Don’t forget to check out the Nepal photo gallery here)

Favorite moments:

• Spotting animals in the jungle
• The people
• Dal Bhat
• Super cheap everything
• Slow days in phokara
• being out of China

Not so great:

• Traffic
• None stop horns in 5 ear bleeding notes
• Bus crashes
• Saben losing his shoes

Total Money Spent Per Person: $196.09

Average Per Day Costs Per Person:

• Lodging: $3.10
• Food: $4.57
• Transportation: $2.03
• Misc: $4.31 (Beer, going out, guides, park entrance, etc.)

Total Average Per Day, Per Person: $14.01

Number of Days: 14

Up at 5:45AM. Not fully light outside yet. We have to check out of our room because someone else booked for it for tonight. We took our bags to the tour office we booked with and stored our things there until we get back later this morning to find another room. Since it was so early, very few places were open for a decent/cheap breakfast so a packet of coconut cookies and a bottle of water had to suffice.

Wild Rhino

Finally at 7AM, we set out in a dugout canoe down the calm river. We floated along, catching glimpses of birds playing in the morning sun and seeing a few early rising villagers bathing at a far bank. The air and harsh sun even this early in the day make us reminiscent of the time we spent in the Pantanal in Brazil.

Bird on the river

An hour in the canoe and we landed on a quiet, sandy shore to being our hike into the jungle. We picked our way through some tall itchy grasses, palms, and tangled bushes rising over our heads on either side, several expansive nest of giant red bugs who all seemed to be breeding like the apocalypse is coming (called courting bugs we found out later), and endless amounts of rhino turds, and we could finally begin our adventure in trying to find some rhinos in the wild!

Courting bug not... well ummm... courting

It only took 40 sweaty, tiptoe-y minutes to track one down who was enjoying a nice cool bath in a stream. At first, we were both thinking we were looking at a crocodile hovering in the water. But as we inched closer, ever so quietly, we both gasped (inwardly—we didn’t want to let it know we were watching it!) when we realized we were staring right at our first wild rhino!

Rhino caught in the bath

Fumbling with our cameras we snapped away like Chinese tourists at Disneyland. Our guide made a loud snort sound to try and catch the rhino’s attention and though it could not see us, it jumped sloppily out of the stream up ran up the opposite bank into the tall grass. Lucky for us, it was not interested in picking a fight so those “run up that tree there if she charges at us” instructions the guide had just given us were not needed.

Our guide

Wow! So all those piles of rhino shit really were useful and we got to see a real rhino in the jungle. Woohoo! Feeling totally psyched, we made our way back into the bushes and continued our walk. If we had turned back to the village even then, we would have been satisfied but no, that wasn’t all. Maybe 20 minutes later, our guide gives us the rhino evading instructions in an accented whisper and slinks low into the brush. We follow suit, not quite sure what he means to do until he points through the undergrowth at 2 rhinos in another part of the stream! Then he excitedly points somewhere else just a few feet from the 2 rhinos at—2 more rhinos!

Not a Rhino, but an Eagle

There were 2 “couples” and it is mating season so we were not able to get very close at all since the males are overly aggressive during this time. There was a fair amount of rhino noise going on between the two males as they communicated and stood their respective territories (and females). Our guide was nothing short of giddy and could not resist making a pig-like snort to see what reaction, if any, the rhinos might have at the sound. We were maybe 25 feet from them but lucky for us they were disinterested in pig noises and didn’t stir much beyond a few extra loud grunts. Having fully tested our luck and not wanting to push it any further, we silently inched away from our hiding spot and retreated further into the jungle and away from the thick skinned beasts.

It was not even noon yet and we had seen not just 1 but 5 rhinos who were actually in their own wild habitat! The guide commented that we had an extraordinarily lucky day and he could not help himself being just as excited as we were as he was talking with his younger assistant guide. Time to turn back for lunch and within another hour we were enjoying cold showers and an overpriced lunch.

But that was just the morning! After the heat of the day passed, we hopped into the back of a truck and rode to the elephant park for an up close and personal visit with a pachyderm. Another 2 tourists loaded into a little wooden elephant saddle for the ride.

Elephant head

In the two hour ride, we went around the park office on the well trodden paths atop our elephant carriage. We saw 4 rhinos, several herds of spotted deer, a few samba deer, a peacock couple, and a couple of monkeys high in the trees. All the animals around the park office and trails are incredibly tame and barely even flinch when they hear the yelling, laughing tourists and elephants all day every day.

Another day in the zoo

Since we had gotten to see some real wild rhinos this morning, we didn’t really mind the sedate looking ones we saw during our elephant ride. The ride itself was extremely bumpy but still pretty fun for the novelty of it. The couple who were sharing our elephant were really loud and complained about how uncomfortable it was the entire 2 hours but we had a fun time and enjoyed it for what it was, not necessarily for the wildlife viewing.

The road from Kathmandu to Chitwan rivals the one from the Tibet border that we came in on. In the short 4 hours it took, we were nearly beaten to a bloody pulp. Being smashed into the bench seat in the very back of the bus (situated over the back suspension for your riding comfort!) certainly did not help. At least we did not crash or die along the way!

Elephant taxi

We were dropped off in the little village of Chitwan but to our confusion we needed a taxi to take us the additional 9km to the even smaller village of Sauraha that rests right at the edge of Royal Chitwan National Park. Through a series of soda shops, a tour office, and a walk through and back of town we discovered that a “taxi” in Chitwan means two things: horse cart or bicycle rickshaw. We chose the bicycle rickshaw even though it seemed a bit inhumane to ask another person to drag us for 9km in the blistering Nepal sun, he didn’t seem to mind and happily charged us a third more than the local price.

Saben in the rickshaw

The road was rough and we were passed by a few jumbo tourist buses, several motorcycles, and an elephant taxi. But the views along the way were bright and beautiful, certainly a welcome change of scenery from the dusty, trashed cities we’ve been seeing lately.

The view from the back

Surprisingly, it only took 45 minutes to get into Sauraha. The driver dropped us at the first lodge and, after having a price check, we decided to keep looking for a room further down the road. It was hot and humid, definitely enough to form streams of sweat on our faces. After checking several places, we turned around and went back to the one we had decided on. A cold shower was definitely in order followed by something to eat. The afternoon was spent shopping around the many tour agents to compare prices and tours. Not exactly a thrilling day but at least we are going to track rhinos tomorrow and ride an elephant too!

Due to the holiday (and the Nepalese government), there is a money and transportation shortage. Since most people are planning to travel to visit relatives and friends over the holiday, bus tickets are nearly impossible to get for many days in advance. For the same reason, people are pulling what little money they have from the banks to cover their traveling expenses. Normally this would be fine but since the Nepalese government has not ordered any new money to put into circulation in many months, the banks are left with little money for ATMs (and in many cases, we discovered first hand, no money at all).

Rickshaw in the streets

Many banks all over the city are closed until further notice because they are literally out of money. It took us 8 ATMs until we finally found once hidden away on a very back street away from the tourist district before we could get enough money to even pay for breakfast today (about $2!). Luckily we were able to find it so we can pay our hotel bill tomorrow and eat today too!

First day spent at the embassy and doing a whole lot of nothing around town. But After spending another half day at the Indian embassy on day 2, we discovered our Indian visas would be ready later this afternoon. Having a few open hours on our hands, we took a taxi across town to see the Pashupatinath temple complex and were rudely met with a NPR 500 entrance charge (that’s US$7 !!).

In the temple

It took much deliberation and finally we decided okay, fine we will pay your stupid fee to get in. It was a very intriguing complex but its smaller inside than it seems from the outside. The smoke from the burning ghats (where the dead a burned and “depositied” in the river) is a real smack in the face and the number of beggars rivals the amount of thieving monkeys running about the place.

Sadhus in the temple

The sadhus make nice photos but they will ask for a small donation from you if you want a picture of them. Groups of tourists come in waves and many local youths who claim to be students will test as many tourists as possible until they find someone who will give them “only a small donation” for telling all about the history of Pashupatinath.

Sadhu counting his change

It is definitely an interesting experience and best viewed from above where you can discreetly people watch and take photos without causing a scene or making anyone angry. Keep a very close eye and hand on your stuff from the hoards of thieving monkeys and people as well.

View across the river

We recommend taking a hankerchief or at least a tissue to cover your nose and mouth for when the wind changes and blows the smoke from the burning corpses in your direction.

Well, it was at least good news that we did not sustain any bus crashes today on our journey back to Kathmandu although we did pass 8 rather messy, probably quite fatal and very crunchy lorry and bus crashes along the way. But because of all these other crashes, traffic was at least a bit slower today and that was probably why our own bus did not wreck today. Three cheers for that!

Back in Kathmandu we did nothing but discover that prices have all magically raised in the 4 days we have been in Pokhara and that Kathmandu is still a madhouse.

A long and arduous climb into the mountains proved another fruitless effort for the Annapurnas in the distance. It was another day too hazy from the heat to afford a view of the snowy mountains. It took the whole day, several handfuls of “cow rocks” (used to ward off mean spirited water buffalo) and lots of rest breaks but we eventually made it to the top of Sarangot.

On the way up the hill

The view was a little disappointing even if we had not been hoping for snow capped mountains but the entrance fee to the top viewing point is just US$0.33. The view is more expansive than from the World Peace stupa because it is much higher but the area around the stupa is nicer and more relaxing. The top of Sarangot is poorly maintained and partitioned off as a “military space” with rusty barbed wire and a couple of makeshift buildings. Still, you get a nice view over the actual city of Pokhara from two sides.

Phokara hidden in the valley

Just as we were coming into town about 10 minutes from our hotel, another massive rainstorm rumbled to a start overhead. We wanted to shower and change clothes before heading out for some dinner and just narrowly missed the storm. A bit later, it seemed to have stopped and we decided to make a break for it and find something to eat. Misfortune struck as fat, heavy raindrops smacked down on our heads the farther and farther we went from our hotel. We were starving and there was nowhere nearby to get food so we had to keep going. Within 10 minutes it was raining so hard the streets were flooding with several inches of water and our clothes were almost soaked through despite our large Chinese umbrella. As we scampered through the torrential downpour and rushing rivers that were once streets, we lost our flip flops a couple times but were able to run after them in time. Finally, having tried and failed enough times, the flood snatched one of Saben’s beloved Haviana’s (purchased in beautiful Paraty, Brazil) and swept it into a storm grate. Unwilling to concede the loss of his favorite shoes, he went after it. Within a hair’s length of his fingertips, a sudden gush of water poured over the grate and sank the shoe down, down, into the miserable depths of somewhere in Lake Phewa. Devastated and missing one shoe, Saben sulked into one of the many outdoor stores and unceremoniously announced, “I need some shoes.” The sales girl looked from Lin to Saben’s bare foot and back then to Saben before finally helping us to the shoe racks. With few choices and no option to go barefoot through the water buffalo shit, he sank to the level of buying a cheap pair of Teva flip flops to get him through this difficult time without his favorite Havianas.

Poor shoe, lost out there all by its self

Soaked to the skin, dirty with muddy rain water, and still not having eaten since breakfast we stormed into the nearest restaurant. Unfortunately for our wallets, that turned out to be the apparently well known “Busy Bee Cafe.” The service was atrocious, the food was typically 10 times overpriced, and the portions minuscule but seeing how our day had been going we could take no more. Angrily scarfing our food down, we begrudgingly paid the exorbitant bill and sloshed our way back to the hotel beneath the now non-precipitating night sky. What a day.

From above, Lake Phewa looks pretty small but by the water’s edge, it seems like a pleasantly large lake. We spent some time walking around the lake and watching some row boats float noiselessly across the murky water. The afternoon was terribly rainy and flooded the streets but made for a nice evening out on our balcony watching the daylight fade from the sky.

Phewa Lake

The day was hazy blue-white with the heat hanging stiffly in the air. Sitting atop the World Peace pagoda with our shoes waiting patiently at the bottom of the stairs, we surveyed tiny scale Lakeside and Lake Phewa below us. The hills are lush and green, the flowers are bright and the buzzing of unnamed bugs are all the noise pollution we endure at this height.

On the hike up to the stupa

We started our day with a hearty breakfast and a walk through town passing a man fishing who wanted to be our guide to the pagoda, a group of schoolgirls eager to practice their English, and a few mischievous young boys jumping into the river for a cool swim. The hike up was not too difficult but took our time anyway, wanting to enjoy the silence in the hills. The pagoda itself is nice but it is the view that is truly stunning.

The Pagoda

and the view

On the way back down, we met a young woman who taught us some useful Nepali words and who knew just how to throw rocks at the herds of fickle and overly aggressive water buffalo. Back on the edge of town we stopped into Devi’s Falls and learned the unhappy story behind the falls’ namesake.

The Falls

Apparently, sometime around the early 1900s a Swiss woman was bathing in the stream by the falls and was swept away and drowned by the rushing water and down into the cave into which the stream cascades. It was a small, simple park but entrance is pretty steep: $0.25—ouch! If you can afford it, it is a nice visit if for nothing more than the cool spray bouncing off the rocks to cool your face from the Nepali sun.

It is best not to make many (or any, in fact) future plans if you intend to travel by bus in Nepal. Actually, it is probably best not to really think of anything besides trying to survive and holding very tightly to the seat handle, if you are lucky enough to have one on your bus. Even on such a short journey of 6 hours can prove to be a life threatening endeavor.

Just another day in the life

It took most of the day to get from Kathmandu to Pokhara on a cramped, bumpy, recklessly fast bus filled with more people than seats should even uncomfortably accommodate and 2 bus crashes in the meantime. The first crash happened when another bus, fitting a very similar description to ours in condition and population, smacked headlong into the rear end of our bus at full speed while we were parked on the side of the road.

Felt worse than it looks

The second crash happened about 20 minutes later when our driver ran down a pedestrian, a kid who looked to be about 17 years old. The bus stopped only long enough for the kid’s friend to drag his bloody and unconscious body from beneath the bus tires and onto the sidewalk. Within half a second, our driver sped away, not for even a moment getting out to check on the condition of the person he had just run over nor to call for a taxi or medical vehicle (not that one can really get through the ridiculous traffic that pervades Nepal’s dreadful road system). When we finally arrived in Pokhara’s tiny bus depot, we all nearly leapt from the bus doors before it had even stopped completely and were scratching at the luggage door in hopes of getting our baggage and fleeing with the last scraps of our lives.

The Problem

Thanks to bus crash #1, the luggage door was very badly caved and bent inward. So what ensued was 6 random Nepalis prying at it with a crow bar and beating it with hammers and 15 foreigners yelling at them to stop because they were hammering it in the wrong direction. Finally one lone Nepali guy sheepishly starts chipping away under the direction of the yelling foreigners and, lo and behold—the door feebly pries open and fists start flying to get the bags and get the hell out.

Happy to have arrived unmaimed we each grabbed our bags and set out on foot for a hotel. As it turns out, Lakeside is just a smaller, less noisy version of Kathamnadu’s Thamel. All the same, it’s a rather pleasant change and at least we survived today’s bus journey!