We never planned on Nepal really being a destination, it was always more of a quick break between China and India. But we actually had a fun time here. We decided from the beginning not to do much and to just chill out for a little bit before the onslaught of India and Nepal gave us that and more. We Delved into the chaos of Kathmandu, enjoyed the serene views in Phokara, met some of the nicest people, stalked wild rhinos in the jungles of chitwan and ate more dal bhat than is probably healthy.
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September 26, 2009 – Day 275 – Sauraha, Nepal

Up at 5:45AM. Not fully light outside yet. We have to check out of our room because someone else booked for it for tonight. We took our bags to the tour office we booked with and stored our things there until we get back later this morning to find another room. Since it was so early, very few places were open for a decent/cheap breakfast so a packet of coconut cookies and a bottle of water had to suffice.

Wild Rhino

September 25, 2009 – Day 274 – Sauraha, Nepal

The road from Kathmandu to Chitwan rivals the one from the Tibet border that we came in on. In the short 4 hours it took, we were nearly beaten to a bloody pulp. Being smashed into the bench seat in the very back of the bus (situated over the back suspension for your riding comfort!) certainly did not help. At least we did not crash or die along the way!

Elephant taxi

September 24, 2009 – Day 273 – Kathmandu, Nepal

Due to the holiday (and the Nepalese government), there is a money and transportation shortage. Since most people are planning to travel to visit relatives and friends over the holiday, bus tickets are nearly impossible to get for many days in advance. For the same reason, people are pulling what little money they have from the banks to cover their traveling expenses. Normally this would be fine but since the Nepalese government has not ordered any new money to put into circulation in many months, the banks are left with little money for ATMs (and in many cases, we discovered first hand, no money at all).

Rickshaw in the streets

Many banks all over the city are closed until further notice because they are literally out of money. It took us 8 ATMs until we finally found once hidden away on a very back street away from the tourist district before we could get enough money to even pay for breakfast today (about $2!). Luckily we were able to find it so we can pay our hotel bill tomorrow and eat today too!

September 22-23, 2009 – Day 271-272 – Kathmandu, Nepal

First day spent at the embassy and doing a whole lot of nothing around town. But After spending another half day at the Indian embassy on day 2, we discovered our Indian visas would be ready later this afternoon. Having a few open hours on our hands, we took a taxi across town to see the Pashupatinath temple complex and were rudely met with a NPR 500 entrance charge (that’s US$7 !!).

In the temple

September 21, 2009 – Day 270 – Kathmandu, Nepal

Well, it was at least good news that we did not sustain any bus crashes today on our journey back to Kathmandu although we did pass 8 rather messy, probably quite fatal and very crunchy lorry and bus crashes along the way. But because of all these other crashes, traffic was at least a bit slower today and that was probably why our own bus did not wreck today. Three cheers for that!

Back in Kathmandu we did nothing but discover that prices have all magically raised in the 4 days we have been in Pokhara and that Kathmandu is still a madhouse.

September 20, 2009 – Day 269 – Pokhara, Nepal

A long and arduous climb into the mountains proved another fruitless effort for the Annapurnas in the distance. It was another day too hazy from the heat to afford a view of the snowy mountains. It took the whole day, several handfuls of “cow rocks” (used to ward off mean spirited water buffalo) and lots of rest breaks but we eventually made it to the top of Sarangot.

On the way up the hill

September 19, 2009 – Day 268 – Pokhara, Nepal

From above, Lake Phewa looks pretty small but by the water’s edge, it seems like a pleasantly large lake. We spent some time walking around the lake and watching some row boats float noiselessly across the murky water. The afternoon was terribly rainy and flooded the streets but made for a nice evening out on our balcony watching the daylight fade from the sky.

Phewa Lake

September 18, 2009 – Day 267 – Pokhara, Nepal

The day was hazy blue-white with the heat hanging stiffly in the air. Sitting atop the World Peace pagoda with our shoes waiting patiently at the bottom of the stairs, we surveyed tiny scale Lakeside and Lake Phewa below us. The hills are lush and green, the flowers are bright and the buzzing of unnamed bugs are all the noise pollution we endure at this height.

On the hike up to the stupa

September 17, 2009 – Day 266 – Pokhara, Nepal

It is best not to make many (or any, in fact) future plans if you intend to travel by bus in Nepal. Actually, it is probably best not to really think of anything besides trying to survive and holding very tightly to the seat handle, if you are lucky enough to have one on your bus. Even on such a short journey of 6 hours can prove to be a life threatening endeavor.

Just another day in the life