Despite all the garbage Tibetans put up with from China, the people of Tibet are amazingly warm and friendly to outsiders. They will stare at you but just out of curiosity and when you look back at them, they will give you a big genuine smile. They are very poor but also very happy and very religious and seem to take all the unfairness of life in stride. How could you not be happy when you live in such an astonishingly beautiful country!
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September 12, 2009 – Day 261 – Tibet

Woke up smelling like a smoked yak. Compliments of the incompetent woman who can only seem to produce smoke instead of fire and her endless piles of unwashed yak scented blankets. Every time the fire would start to get going she would douse it with a health heep of sheep shit until we finally had to tell her to stop and just let it be. It was better to be cold than to die of smoke inhalation.

Everest in the Morning, Tibet

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September 11, 2009 – Day 260 – Everest Base Camp, Tibet side

A full day of driving with only a few stops along the way. Lunch was in a tiny unpleasant town with nothing to offer but a warm, cheap meal. We had traditional Tibetan noodles, a kind of thick noodle soup in a yak broth for about $0.45.

Everest at night

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September 10, 2009 – 259 – Shigatse, Tibet

Spectacular (but dangerous) driving today. Our driver is absolutely insane and drives a minimum of 100 kph around gravel covered hairpin mountain curves with the back tires skidding (and sometimes squealing) behind. We have had our share of crazy drivers but this one seems the most ridiculous of all. At any rate, we were able to see some beautiful views of Tibet as we drove toward our home for the night, a little town called Shigatse.

Yak at Yamdrok Lake

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September 9, 2009 – Day 258 – Lhasa, Tibet

Being in Lhasa is literally being in a whole different world. It is absolutely nothing like China and it is difficult to see just why China insists on maintaining ownership over this small, poor region. The people are so wonderful and even though they do stare, they are honestly curious instead of nosy and will return your glance with a big smile.

In the streets of Lhasa

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September 8, 20009 – Day 257 – Lhasa, Tibet

When talking about a place as colorful and detailed as a Tibetan Buddhist temple, how is it possible to describe the interior without pictures? No photos are allowed inside any Buddhist temple and it makes it difficult to fully paint a picture with enough or the right words.

Monk in the temple

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September 6, 2009 – Day 255 – In transit China to Tibet

Very long, irritating train ride. Beautiful scenery, inconsiderate cabin mates (hard sleeper with 6 bunks; ours are bottoms this one and only time…ugh), looking forward to a real meal not consisting of almond crackers and oreos.

Saben on the train

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Three questions for China (or the Chinese):

• What do you do with all the photos you take of us, is there a “photo a gringo” contest we are unaware of?

• What is wrong with your respiratory system that requires you to hock, spit, and nearly vomit every 20 seconds?

• What is up with the “coke nail” (one fingernail that is minimum 1 inch long) that nearly every man sports?

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We met very few independent travelers in China. In fact we were told repeatedly by others travelers along the way that traveling independent in China was near impossible. So in light of that we thought we would put together a quick Travelers tip post on how to survive China.
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September 3, 2009 – Day 252 – Chendgu, China

Overall an unusually cruel and terrible travel day on a Chinese train. Got to Sim’s and finally we were able to collapse into the confines of a quiet room with movies and showers and a real meal that was not ramen noodles.

September 4, 2009 – Day 253 – Chengdu, China

Lots of errands to run today in preparation of our approaching Tibet trip! Gathering supplies and meeting our 2 travel mates to-be. Seem like cool guys. Laundry day!

September 5, 2009 – Day 254 – Chengdu, China

Saben is sick with Lin’s yak flu (sorry!) and took the day off. Laundry got rained on during the night and now not only smells weird but completely refuses to dry. This evening at 7pm we set out for the train station to embark on a 3 day journey to Lhasa, Tibet. It took 3 security checks, photos of our passports, and a smokey waiting room until we were ready to board our mobile home. Good riddance China, Tibet here we come!