March 6, 2010 – Day 436 – Hanoi, Vietnam

At 6:30am, we pulled into Hanoi. Well, more like 25km outside Hanoi city. It was still dark and we were still kind of asleep when we shared a taxi with someone to downtown to try to find a place to sleep for the night. At least we were getting any early start!

Streets of Hanoi

We got a “cheap room” the manager called it, for $6 with wifi, hot shower, and TV—whoa now! Granted, it was pretty shabby and there was definitely someone else’s hair in the sheets and the door doesn’t actually close and but hey, it’s the penthouse suite! Stair-access only, up 7 floors. A good view right? Hanoi isn’t really a place for “good views.” It is hazy and overcast from sun up to sun down. Not to mention that it is freakin’ cold here! What happened to all those people who said, “Oh yeah, Hanoi is sweltering hot this time of year.”?!

Street cat

Anyway, our first day in Vietnam. What a surprise! It is not like any other Asian country we have been to. It’s not western but heavily western influenced, with a large side of Socialist art and propaganda covering the city. A weird mixture to be sure but not at all unpleasant. The parks are not as sterile and concrete as China’s are; the people don’t stare as much, they don’t stop in the middle of the sidewalk unexpectedly like a lot of other Asian countries, but they still walk incredibly slow and take up the entire sidewalk (well, where one exists) and act generally unfriendly and rude on the streets according to western manners.

Hanoi traffic

We are not saying they are rude or even unfriendly but they are not very giving when it comes to sharing space, smiling or even looking somewhat approachable, and they certainly don’t “see” other people as they are moving through the streets. A typical self-oriented Asian culture. But they are nice enough to talk to, service in restaurants is very good, not like in Lao where if they see you looking straight at them they will literally leap into some hiding spot and wait until you are either (a) not looking anymore, or (b) you are so hungry that you have to leave the restaurant to find somewhere else to eat before you croak.

Lindsey in the cafe

Traffic here in Hanoi is absolutely insane. Lanes do not exist and traffic signs and lights are so rare that you would be hard pressed to find even one of either. Mopeds outnumber cars, buses, pedestrians and the brave folks on bicycles by the hundreds. It is a free-for-all when it comes to driving. Anywhere is game and the sidewalks are strictly for parking mopeds. Horn honking is extraordinarily loud and overused and if you are one of the unfortunate fools walking around Hanoi, you had better be very brave and very predictable. Otherwise you will likely end up with your spine lying in a big twisted knot on the ground as you go by, all compliments of 85 mopeds whizzing by willy nilly. And for crossing the infamously huge intersections of Hanoi, really it is best to just go for it. Traffic will indeed part for you. One very important thing to know: never ever cross in front of a bus (mini or full size) or a taxi. They will actually go out of their way to run over you. Bus drivers are universally maniacal because they are dealing with stupid people all day long and that makes anyone angry and a bit crazed.

Mopeds in Hanoi

So our stroll around the neighborhood to see what was around turned into a several hours long trek through madness and getting-lost-ness because every shop, hotel, and tour agency in Hanoi is named exactly the same thing. Same signs too. All in all, Hanoi is a a crazy place with relatively little to see and do but a place that you just can’t miss. It’s the city itself that is the draw. First order of business, get a bloody map.